Can My Sewer Lines Be Repaired Without Digging?

Have you ever had a slow and sluggish drain or looked in your bathtub after washing to find a ring of gunk? If so, you may have a simple blockage not far from the drain. It might, however, be a partially clogged sewer line. This problem is not only annoying but can become downright dangerous if the stuff that's supposed to go into the sewer starts backing up into your house.

Unless you are a plumber yourself, the best way to solve this problem is to call a professional. Sewer lines are buried in your yard and will probably be difficult to find. Then again, in some cases, they might run under the foundation of your house. It is best to hire a professional instead of just starting to dig.

There are many causes of sewer line blockages. Over time a layer of sludge can build up, especially if your drain does not have the proper slope. Sewer lines drain by gravity and the pipe needs to run at a slight downhill angle. This is to allow all the things you send down it to flow where they're supposed to go.

The ground around the pipe can sometimes shift and cause an incorrect angle thus slowing your drain. Other causes of sewer line problems can be a broken pipe that may have happened by being driven over. There may also be a tree or other plant roots that may grow their way into your sewer line. Regardless of the cause, a clogged sewer line is nothing to mess around with.

A professional should be able to diagnose your problem without digging up the entire drain line. This can sometimes be accomplished through checking any clean out plugs you may have installed in the line. Most professional plumbers will even have small video cameras that can be placed in the drain to reveal blockages. That way, the problem can be pinpointed without wrecking your entire yard.

Once the problem is diagnosed however, there may still be some digging involved. If there is a major break in your sewer line the only way to fix it is going to involve digging the line up and replacing the broken section. However, if your blockage is only partial or your line is only cracked there are alternatives to digging. Most plumbers have some type of power rodding equipment.

This equipment is useful for removing sludge buildup or root systems that have invaded your sewer line. It consists of a head used for cutting and clearing, attached to a flexible steel rod or line. This rod or line is then attached to a turning mechanism sometimes powered by a gas or electric engine. This turns the head through the rod thus clearing out the blockage.

If your sewer line is cracked there are even alternatives to recoat the inside of your pipe with dry-in-place epoxies. These and other materials effectively reline your pipe and seal up any cracks without having to dig the entire line up. There are numerous methods to fix a sewer line and calling a professional plumber will be the first step in diagnosing your problem and getting it fixed with as little hassle as possible.

Winterizing Your Boat - Thinking Ahead So Next Year You Can Hit The Water Without Problems

For boaters the sad truth is that winter is creeping upon us. Savvy boaters know this is the time to prepare our boats for next year. Those who are new to boating take heart help is on the way. Below are some helpful tips on "Winterizing your boat". Don't cringe at the possibility of yet more work to do, but consider this an opportunity to clearly know what the state of your vessel is for next year.

What should I do to prepare?

If possible, your boat should be out of the water for the winter, and in a climate controlled storage area. Knowing that this is not possible for everyone, you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This is also an expensive choice, but gives good protection for your boat. If these two options are unavailable to you then you should make sure that you place a tarp over your boat. Make a checklist using your owner's manual as a starting point. It should include winterizing information on your vessel.

Keep in mind that your insurance policy may not cover neglect for poor maintenance if damage occurs. Each year keep mental notes or write them down, of things you notice or remember that should be done before the next boating season. This should get easier every year. If you purchased your boat second hand, hopefully you included questions pertaining to winterizing in your pre-purchase questionnaire. If you have neither sources of information, create your list based upon of two possible choices or enlist the help of a boating friend or expert. One is for outboards, and one is for inboards.

Items for you're "Winterizing first aid kit":

1. Normal engine lubricants

2. Can of fogging oil

3. fuel stabilizer or fuel biocide (depending upon whether you have a gas or diesel engine)

4. 1-2 gallons of non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze (for inboards)

Outboards:

Empty fuel lines and carburetors -

Fog the carburetor intake(s) -

Fog the cylinders -

Do a freshwater flush -

Drain Cooling passages -

Lubricate the linkages and the electric starter drive mechanism -

Drain and refill the gear case -

Touch up damaged paint -

Stabilize the fuel -

Clean and liberally lubricate the propeller shaft -

Store upright -

Inboards:

Change coolant -

Change engine and transmission oil -

Run engine out of fuel (gas engines only) -

Fog the intake (gas engines only) -

Drain the fuel tank and lines (gas engines only) -

Flush raw-water circuit -

Protect raw-water passages -

Diesel engines top off fuel tanks and add biocide -

Remove raw-water impeller -

Fog cylinders (gas engines only) -

Fog intake (diesel engines only) -

Drain muffler canister -

Degrease, de-rust and touchup -

Grease control cables -

Coat unpainted parts with an anticorrosion spray -

Tighten stuffing box -

Stern drive:

A stern drive in general is an inboard engine connected to an outboard drive system. With this in mind just follow the instructions for inboard protection and the outboard list for the lower end.

In addition you should consider doing the following:

Fill drive shaft housing with lubricant -

Place the stern drive in the full down position - this allows for draining of the water passages and for checking and/or adding the gear lube.

Additional things to consider:

Check fuel filters and replace if necessary -

Check, clean and grease engine control cables -

Grease fittings -

Check all drive belts for wear -

Check all hoses for signs of wear (bulging, cracking, leaking, and inability to flex) -

Check clamps for signs of rust or corrosion -

Seal engine openings - (remove next spring)

Boat exterior:

Wash, clean and wax the entire boat. Wax should be left on without polishing until spring for a great protective barrier from the elements -

Electronics:

Remove all electronics, like radios, depth finders, GPS chart plotters and radar. These need to be stored in a dry warm place. This will not only protect your equipment from the elements, but also from theft -

Batteries need to be removed, cleaned and re-installed - clean off dirt, grease and oil from the battery. Clean the terminals with a baking soda and water mixture and if necessary a wire brush. Then wipe them clean with a paper towel. Make sure that the fluid level in each of the battery cells is near the top, if not, add some distilled water and replace the caps. Check using a multimeter that the battery is showing around 12.6 volts or better. If not, do a slow charge with a battery charger. Re-check with the multimeter after 24 hours. If it is still holding the charge you are ready to go. Keep an eye on the battery to see if it is bulging around the sides. This condition should be a good indicator that the battery is ready to be replaced. Since batteries have acid in them, you should take precautions to avoid contact with your skin or clothing. If contact is made with skin you should wash with soap and warm water to get the acid off your skin. Acid on clothing means you will probably have to replace that item.

Boat interiors:

Clean everything you can in the interior - Make sure that you have removed any food items from the fridge and living areas (these will cause problems that you don't want next year).

Leave doors to rooms, cabinets or lockers open - This allows these areas of the boat to breathe.

Consider dehumidifying your boat interior - This will keep the smells down for next year.

Fresh water systems:

Drain out all fresh water systems - Refill with fresh water and a fresh water system cleaner. This removes bacteria and algae. Afterward drain it out again.

Drain your hot water tank - Avoid having to fill the hot water tank with antifreeze by connecting the inlet and outlet lines together.

Pump antifreeze through your system until the antifreeze comes out all of the faucets (pink colored antifreeze is the safe product) -

This list can be added to from your list of mental notes each year, but should give you a good start to "Winterizing your boat". Remember, if possible, to look into your boat owner's manual for specifics.

Clean Drains Without Chemicals

If you have smelly, slow draining, or completely clogged drains in your home, you may have used chemical drain cleaners to solve the problem. But chemical drain cleaners usually contain dangerous substances such as lye and acid which can harm you, your pipes and the waste water system. And there are some good all natural alternatives you can use to accomplish the same thing, at a fraction of the cost. Keep in mind it's easier to treat the drains while they are still draining rather than after they are completely clogged.

Prevention:
*Run some hot water after every use to control odors and keep pipes running clean.
*Pour a strong salt and water solution regularly down the drain to keep grease from building up.

For odor control:
*Pour 1 cup of vinegar, lemon juice, or a handful of baking soda into the drain and let it sit for 30 minutes. Then run some hot water.

For slow moving drains:
*sometimes just using a plunger will dislodge the material that is slowing the drain.
*Pour 1 cup baking soda followed by 3 cups of boiling water down the drain. Repeat if needed.

For clogged drains:
*Pour 1/2 cup baking soda followed by 1 cup of white vinegar down the drain and allow it to foam for a few minutes. Then flush with 1 gallon of boiling water.

There are also natural living enzyme culture drain cleaners that will eat the organic material. They can be used monthly to keep drains clean as well as septic systems.

**A word of caution about baking soda - Don't use it if you've already used a commercial acid drain cleaner recently, as they will react to each other.