Common Plumbing Problems That You Can Fix Yourself

Got a home plumbing problem? Fortunately, the vast majority of plumbing problems you can fix yourself pretty easily, instead of calling a plumber and making him your new best friend. Often, all it takes to finish the job is a rudimentary toolkit and the will to learn. Some common problems found with plumbing include:

- Running toilet

- Backed-up toilets

- Noisy pipes

- Flooding

RUNNING TOILET

One of the most frequent is the running toilet. Usually this problem can be fixed simply by replacing a faulty flapper or ball assembly. Flapper is either staying up or not seating well. In order to fix this problem, you should first turn off the water to this toilet. Then, remove the toilet-tank lid. Take the flapper out and take it with you to the hardware store to make sure you buy the correct replacement. This is an easy fix and it will cost you about $5. In some cases it will be required to clean mineral deposits from the tank itself. Vinegar, boiling water and baking soda usually does the trick but be careful if you have marble floor in your bathroom. Marble, slate and granite can be damaged by stray drops of an acidic solution.

BACKED-UP TOILETS

"You ever go to a big party, go in the bathroom, flush the toilet and the water starts coming up? This is the most frightening moment in the life of a human being. You'll do anything to stop this. You'll lose your mind and start talking to the toilet. 'No please, don't do this to me!' " Jerry Seinfeld

The only thing worse than clogging a toilet is clogging someone else's toilet. The most important thing to remember is that if you flush once and the water rises dangerously high, DO NOT flush again! Instead, you should quickly remove the tank lid and push the tank ball down to close the flush valve.

Plumbers will tell you that most toilet blockages are caused by plastic items, sanitary products and toys. If the obstruction may be the result of an object dropped into the toilet, such as a toy or a washcloth, then it is best to try and retrieve it rather than force it farther along. Other clogs resulting from normal flushed waste may be cleared with the use of a plunger or closet auger.

Try first to use a plunger to dislodge anything that may be trapped in the toilet bowl drain. If the bowl is full, put on some gloves and bail out water until the bowl is only half full. If the bowl is empty, add water to fill it to half full. In order to avoid the possibility of splash back, drape a large towel over the bowl and under the toilet seat. Start by making a seal over the hole-in-the-bowl with the plunger. Push down slowly and pull back quickly. Start by doing this at a slow pace and then working up speed. If you see something stuck in the drain opening, you can use a stiff wire to drag it back into the bowl. If you dislodge the item, pour a gallon or so of water into the bowl before you flush. The water should drain to its normal level and stay there.

Major clogs however will probably require a closet auger. Make sure you get a toilet snake/auger, as a sink snake/auger will scrape the porcelein on your toilet. They are specially designed for toilets, so that when you place the padded section at the bottom of the bowl and you shove the handle down with a strong fast motion, a piece of coiled metal will snake its way 4-5 feet into your toilet drain. Cranking the handle around should clear away most clogs. If the water seems to be properly draining, go ahead and try flushing the toilet.

NOISY PIPES

From banging to hammering to high-pitched squeaking, your water pipes can produce a symphony of sounds making you feel like you're living in a submarine. The squeaking and banging you're hearing probably results from too loose or tight a fit as your pipes pass over or through wood framing. The trick to solving this problem is to identify the specific sounds, and to know from which glen the pipes, the pipes are calling.

Banging - If they're improperly installed, water pipes can raise a racket by banging against the floor joists. Pipes are usually/hopefully anchored with metal or plastic straps every 6 to 8 feet for horizontal runs, or 8 to 10 feet for vertical. Banging pipes usually means loose pipes. All it takes to fix this problem is adding more straps to anchor the pipe. Cushion the pipe by wrapping it in a rubber blanket cut from an old inner tube, garden hose, or foam pipe insulation. Wrap the rubber completely around the pipe and secure it to the joist with a nail-on metal pipe strap.

Squeaking - Only your hot water pipes will squeak. The sound occurs when the pipe expands in its strap causing friction. The problem is the opposite of a banging pipe but the solution is the same: a rubber cushion between the pipe and the strap.

Water Hammer - Have you ever turned off a faucet or an appliance quickly causing the water to "hammer" against the pipes? This is most common in toilets. Plumbing systems usually have 'air cushions,' short vertical sections of pipe designed to cushion the shock when the water is turned on or off. If there is no air cushion, or the air cushion has become filled with water, a loud banging sound can be heard after you shut off the water, or flush. Turn off the water at the main shutoff valve. Open all your faucets to drain the entire system. Close the faucets and turn on the water again. This should refill your chambers with air.

FLOODING

Many things including, seepage from cracked pipes, a corroded water heater, or an overflowing faucet or toilet can cause flooding. Whatever the cause, take immediate steps to shut off the water. If necessary, contact a plumbing professional to identify and repair the problem. If there is standing water that needs pumping out, you'll need a sump pump to extract the water, or you can have the plumber do it. In flooding situations, be especially alert to the possibility of danger from electrical wiring. Water and electricity are a dangerous combination. Never step in standing water if there is any contact with electrical outlets or wiring.

Chili Verde Recipes - Slow Cooker Chili Verde

Here's a quick and easy chili verde recipe that you can serve as a soup or over chimichangas.

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon garlic pepper

3 pounds pork picnic roast

1 large onion, diced

1 (14.5 oz.) can chicken broth

2 (4 oz.) cans diced green chilies, drained

3 (7 oz.) cans green salsa

2 (15.5 oz.) cans great Northern beans, drained (optional)

Directions

In a slow cooker, pour in half of the Worcestershire sauce and half of the garlic pepper. Place the roast inside of the pan and sprinkle the remaining Worcestershire sauce and garlic pepper over the top of the meat. Add in the onions and chilies. Pour the chicken broth over all. Cover and cook on low heat for 8 to 10 hours.


When the roast is fork tender (you can pull it apart with a fork), stir in the green salsa and beans. Continue cooking until heated completely.

=> Chili Verde Recipes: Chili Verde Stew

This spicy chili verde recipe features roasted pork, salsa, green chilies, spices and fresh jalapeno pepper. Remember to wear rubber or plastic gloves when handling fresh hot peppers, and don't touch your face or eyes while handling.

3/4 pound boneless pork roast, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon canola oil

1/4 cup green pepper, chopped

1/4 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/4 cup dry red wine or beef broth

1 cup canned diced tomatoes

1/2 cup salsa

2 tablespoons canned chopped green chilies, divided

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1 dash ground cloves

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced

1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped

Directions

In a large saucepan, cook the pork in oil over medium heat until it no longer looks pink; remove the meat from the pan and set aside.


In the same pan, sauté the green pepper, onion and garlic for 1 to 2 minutes, or until they are tender. Stir in the pork, wine or broth, tomatoes, salsa, 1 tablespoon of the chilies, cumin, sugar and cloves. Cover and cook over low heat for 40 minutes; stir occasionally.


Stir in the parsley, jalapeno and remaining chilies. Cover and cook for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until the meat is tender.

=> Chili Verde Recipes: Basic Homemade Chili Verde

Here is a simple way to make homemade chili verde which uses fresh cilantro.

1 pound pork, cubed

5 tomatillos (green tomatoes)

3 serrano chili peppers

1 medium white onion

1/3 bunch fresh cilantro

4 cloves of garlic

Directions

In a pan, cook pork until nice and brown; drain off the fat.


Wrap the tomatillos, chilies and garlic in aluminum foil and place them inside a pot. Cover and heat on medum high until the tomatoes are nice and soft; stir occasionally.


Unwrap the vegetables and place in a food processor along with the onion and cilantro. Blend well. Pour sauce over the pork and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. You can add a little more fresh cilantro after about 5 minutes of cooking, if desired.

Winterizing Your Boat - Thinking Ahead So Next Year You Can Hit The Water Without Problems

For boaters the sad truth is that winter is creeping upon us. Savvy boaters know this is the time to prepare our boats for next year. Those who are new to boating take heart help is on the way. Below are some helpful tips on "Winterizing your boat". Don't cringe at the possibility of yet more work to do, but consider this an opportunity to clearly know what the state of your vessel is for next year.

What should I do to prepare?

If possible, your boat should be out of the water for the winter, and in a climate controlled storage area. Knowing that this is not possible for everyone, you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This is also an expensive choice, but gives good protection for your boat. If these two options are unavailable to you then you should make sure that you place a tarp over your boat. Make a checklist using your owner's manual as a starting point. It should include winterizing information on your vessel.

Keep in mind that your insurance policy may not cover neglect for poor maintenance if damage occurs. Each year keep mental notes or write them down, of things you notice or remember that should be done before the next boating season. This should get easier every year. If you purchased your boat second hand, hopefully you included questions pertaining to winterizing in your pre-purchase questionnaire. If you have neither sources of information, create your list based upon of two possible choices or enlist the help of a boating friend or expert. One is for outboards, and one is for inboards.

Items for you're "Winterizing first aid kit":

1. Normal engine lubricants

2. Can of fogging oil

3. fuel stabilizer or fuel biocide (depending upon whether you have a gas or diesel engine)

4. 1-2 gallons of non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze (for inboards)

Outboards:

Empty fuel lines and carburetors -

Fog the carburetor intake(s) -

Fog the cylinders -

Do a freshwater flush -

Drain Cooling passages -

Lubricate the linkages and the electric starter drive mechanism -

Drain and refill the gear case -

Touch up damaged paint -

Stabilize the fuel -

Clean and liberally lubricate the propeller shaft -

Store upright -

Inboards:

Change coolant -

Change engine and transmission oil -

Run engine out of fuel (gas engines only) -

Fog the intake (gas engines only) -

Drain the fuel tank and lines (gas engines only) -

Flush raw-water circuit -

Protect raw-water passages -

Diesel engines top off fuel tanks and add biocide -

Remove raw-water impeller -

Fog cylinders (gas engines only) -

Fog intake (diesel engines only) -

Drain muffler canister -

Degrease, de-rust and touchup -

Grease control cables -

Coat unpainted parts with an anticorrosion spray -

Tighten stuffing box -

Stern drive:

A stern drive in general is an inboard engine connected to an outboard drive system. With this in mind just follow the instructions for inboard protection and the outboard list for the lower end.

In addition you should consider doing the following:

Fill drive shaft housing with lubricant -

Place the stern drive in the full down position - this allows for draining of the water passages and for checking and/or adding the gear lube.

Additional things to consider:

Check fuel filters and replace if necessary -

Check, clean and grease engine control cables -

Grease fittings -

Check all drive belts for wear -

Check all hoses for signs of wear (bulging, cracking, leaking, and inability to flex) -

Check clamps for signs of rust or corrosion -

Seal engine openings - (remove next spring)

Boat exterior:

Wash, clean and wax the entire boat. Wax should be left on without polishing until spring for a great protective barrier from the elements -

Electronics:

Remove all electronics, like radios, depth finders, GPS chart plotters and radar. These need to be stored in a dry warm place. This will not only protect your equipment from the elements, but also from theft -

Batteries need to be removed, cleaned and re-installed - clean off dirt, grease and oil from the battery. Clean the terminals with a baking soda and water mixture and if necessary a wire brush. Then wipe them clean with a paper towel. Make sure that the fluid level in each of the battery cells is near the top, if not, add some distilled water and replace the caps. Check using a multimeter that the battery is showing around 12.6 volts or better. If not, do a slow charge with a battery charger. Re-check with the multimeter after 24 hours. If it is still holding the charge you are ready to go. Keep an eye on the battery to see if it is bulging around the sides. This condition should be a good indicator that the battery is ready to be replaced. Since batteries have acid in them, you should take precautions to avoid contact with your skin or clothing. If contact is made with skin you should wash with soap and warm water to get the acid off your skin. Acid on clothing means you will probably have to replace that item.

Boat interiors:

Clean everything you can in the interior - Make sure that you have removed any food items from the fridge and living areas (these will cause problems that you don't want next year).

Leave doors to rooms, cabinets or lockers open - This allows these areas of the boat to breathe.

Consider dehumidifying your boat interior - This will keep the smells down for next year.

Fresh water systems:

Drain out all fresh water systems - Refill with fresh water and a fresh water system cleaner. This removes bacteria and algae. Afterward drain it out again.

Drain your hot water tank - Avoid having to fill the hot water tank with antifreeze by connecting the inlet and outlet lines together.

Pump antifreeze through your system until the antifreeze comes out all of the faucets (pink colored antifreeze is the safe product) -

This list can be added to from your list of mental notes each year, but should give you a good start to "Winterizing your boat". Remember, if possible, to look into your boat owner's manual for specifics.