Tips To Speed Up A Slow Computer

There are several reasons that a computer will start to slow down. Unfortunately it's a reality that PCs tend to get filled with a lot of junk files. This is one of the main reasons why you will notice a computer start to bog down as it gets older.

There are some great ways to clean out the clutter and restore your PC to like-new condition.

Clean Up Your Desktop

Desktop icons can suck up a lot of resources and cause your computer to run a bit on the sluggish side. This is especially true of computers with lower memory.

Clean up all those icons and you will enjoy greater speed and less hangups.

Remove Desktop Wallpaper

Another thing people don't realize is that desktop wallpaper is a huge drain on memory, especially since those wallpaper images can be deceptively large in terms of file size. A 1 meg wallpaper picture can put a huge drain on your system resources.

Clean Up The Registry

A clean Windows registry is a must if you want a computer that's running at it's peak performance levels. Did you know that the registry is one of the biggest causes of common computer problems amongst Windows PCs? Most people don't even know that they have a registry let alone that it can cause problems.

The registry tends to get cluttered with obsolete and empty registry files and folders. These obsolete entries can cause the computer to bog down as it tries to read and re-read them.

Fortunately removing the clutter from your registry is very easy. It's also one of the most effective ways to speed up a slow computer. Use a registry repair program to do the job and it will only take you a few minutes.

Common Plumbing Problems That You Can Fix Yourself

Got a home plumbing problem? Fortunately, the vast majority of plumbing problems you can fix yourself pretty easily, instead of calling a plumber and making him your new best friend. Often, all it takes to finish the job is a rudimentary toolkit and the will to learn. Some common problems found with plumbing include:

- Running toilet

- Backed-up toilets

- Noisy pipes

- Flooding

RUNNING TOILET

One of the most frequent is the running toilet. Usually this problem can be fixed simply by replacing a faulty flapper or ball assembly. Flapper is either staying up or not seating well. In order to fix this problem, you should first turn off the water to this toilet. Then, remove the toilet-tank lid. Take the flapper out and take it with you to the hardware store to make sure you buy the correct replacement. This is an easy fix and it will cost you about $5. In some cases it will be required to clean mineral deposits from the tank itself. Vinegar, boiling water and baking soda usually does the trick but be careful if you have marble floor in your bathroom. Marble, slate and granite can be damaged by stray drops of an acidic solution.

BACKED-UP TOILETS

"You ever go to a big party, go in the bathroom, flush the toilet and the water starts coming up? This is the most frightening moment in the life of a human being. You'll do anything to stop this. You'll lose your mind and start talking to the toilet. 'No please, don't do this to me!' " Jerry Seinfeld

The only thing worse than clogging a toilet is clogging someone else's toilet. The most important thing to remember is that if you flush once and the water rises dangerously high, DO NOT flush again! Instead, you should quickly remove the tank lid and push the tank ball down to close the flush valve.

Plumbers will tell you that most toilet blockages are caused by plastic items, sanitary products and toys. If the obstruction may be the result of an object dropped into the toilet, such as a toy or a washcloth, then it is best to try and retrieve it rather than force it farther along. Other clogs resulting from normal flushed waste may be cleared with the use of a plunger or closet auger.

Try first to use a plunger to dislodge anything that may be trapped in the toilet bowl drain. If the bowl is full, put on some gloves and bail out water until the bowl is only half full. If the bowl is empty, add water to fill it to half full. In order to avoid the possibility of splash back, drape a large towel over the bowl and under the toilet seat. Start by making a seal over the hole-in-the-bowl with the plunger. Push down slowly and pull back quickly. Start by doing this at a slow pace and then working up speed. If you see something stuck in the drain opening, you can use a stiff wire to drag it back into the bowl. If you dislodge the item, pour a gallon or so of water into the bowl before you flush. The water should drain to its normal level and stay there.

Major clogs however will probably require a closet auger. Make sure you get a toilet snake/auger, as a sink snake/auger will scrape the porcelein on your toilet. They are specially designed for toilets, so that when you place the padded section at the bottom of the bowl and you shove the handle down with a strong fast motion, a piece of coiled metal will snake its way 4-5 feet into your toilet drain. Cranking the handle around should clear away most clogs. If the water seems to be properly draining, go ahead and try flushing the toilet.

NOISY PIPES

From banging to hammering to high-pitched squeaking, your water pipes can produce a symphony of sounds making you feel like you're living in a submarine. The squeaking and banging you're hearing probably results from too loose or tight a fit as your pipes pass over or through wood framing. The trick to solving this problem is to identify the specific sounds, and to know from which glen the pipes, the pipes are calling.

Banging - If they're improperly installed, water pipes can raise a racket by banging against the floor joists. Pipes are usually/hopefully anchored with metal or plastic straps every 6 to 8 feet for horizontal runs, or 8 to 10 feet for vertical. Banging pipes usually means loose pipes. All it takes to fix this problem is adding more straps to anchor the pipe. Cushion the pipe by wrapping it in a rubber blanket cut from an old inner tube, garden hose, or foam pipe insulation. Wrap the rubber completely around the pipe and secure it to the joist with a nail-on metal pipe strap.

Squeaking - Only your hot water pipes will squeak. The sound occurs when the pipe expands in its strap causing friction. The problem is the opposite of a banging pipe but the solution is the same: a rubber cushion between the pipe and the strap.

Water Hammer - Have you ever turned off a faucet or an appliance quickly causing the water to "hammer" against the pipes? This is most common in toilets. Plumbing systems usually have 'air cushions,' short vertical sections of pipe designed to cushion the shock when the water is turned on or off. If there is no air cushion, or the air cushion has become filled with water, a loud banging sound can be heard after you shut off the water, or flush. Turn off the water at the main shutoff valve. Open all your faucets to drain the entire system. Close the faucets and turn on the water again. This should refill your chambers with air.

FLOODING

Many things including, seepage from cracked pipes, a corroded water heater, or an overflowing faucet or toilet can cause flooding. Whatever the cause, take immediate steps to shut off the water. If necessary, contact a plumbing professional to identify and repair the problem. If there is standing water that needs pumping out, you'll need a sump pump to extract the water, or you can have the plumber do it. In flooding situations, be especially alert to the possibility of danger from electrical wiring. Water and electricity are a dangerous combination. Never step in standing water if there is any contact with electrical outlets or wiring.

Home System of Plumbing

What people think about Home Plumbing is that it is only concerned about the handling of clean and used water. However, there are other segments that compose the entire system of plumbing in every household. Plumbing entails everything inside the home that uses pipes, piping fixtures and tubing.

Home plumbing systems are made up of other subsystems. First is the water supply that provides tap cold and hot water. This is an indoor plumbing part that is utilized for drinking, toilets flushing, showering, bathing, dish-washing, clothes washing, etc. Tap water may be supplied by various sources such as municipal water supply, water wells, water truck delivery, natural bodies and sources of water like creeks, rivers, lakes and rain. Water faucet is the most common water fixture for this subsystem.

The next subsystem involves vents, drains and traps. It is called DWV or the drain-waste-vent system. This subsystem basically removes dirty water and greywater from inside the house and expels the gases created by the sewage. Waste water is produced in the fixtures like sinks, showers and toilets. Then it goes out through the trap. Trap is the dipped section of the pipe which has water content all the time. The importance of the trap is such that it prevents the toxic gas produced by the wastes from returning to the house. Pipes that connect the fixtures to the outdoors compose the plumbing vents. Vents are for relieving the house of gases from the sewer.
Septic system is also another subdivision of the home plumbing system. Its main component is the septic tank. Septic is the environment for the anaerobic bacteria which has developed in the tank then decomposes the discharged wastes inside the tank.

The Drainage subsystem may be artificial or natural method of removing water (from the surface or subsurface). Drainage is especially used by the agricultural sector for the improvement of the agriculture production.
Piping or Fuel Gas Piping is also included in the system of Plumbing. Piping or pipes are useful in conveying fluids, both gas and liquid, to transport it from one point of location to another. The concept of piping is such that fluid is transported efficiently.

Water is one of our essential needs especially for drinking. As water supply travels through the plumbing system, the proper working condition of all plumbing elements must be ensured. Correct maintenance must be provided to the plumbing system. Some of the plumbing systems malfunctioning are:

Toilet clogging. Clogging happens when the water in the toilet is slow to drain or there is no drainage at all when the toilet is flushed. Possible causes are build up of wastes or there is a foreign object stuck along the water passage.
Bad or Offensive Toilet Odors. A bathroom or toiler and sometimes even the kitchen smells offensively due to improper flow of water in the drainage caused by pipes which have ruptured, whose wax ring is defective or the inadequate amount of water in the bowl.
Showers leaks and clogging of shower heads. Water leaking from the shower may be caused by old and worn shower fixture. Clogging may probably be caused by the collected mineral deposits in the shower head.

How to Deal With a Wet Basement

Every day, we find ourselves in situations where we say "oh if I could only have done that differently". Well this could be your opportunity! .When you start to research a basement problem, you will find many companies claiming to offer the latest and greatest in basement waterproofing or claiming to have all the answers and the best systems. Often, they will throw every slick line at you that they can think of to convince you they're the best! However upon closer inspection, once you get to the heart of the matter, you will find that they use the same out-of-date damproofing methods and interior drain systems everyone else does. What's worse they employ slick sales techniques that you would find on any used car lot! It's all a bunch of double-speak, flat out lies, and misdirection, which is designed to con even an Eskimo into buying ice cubes!

Now I know at this point that you are going to ask me how it is that you can trust me, well the reason is simple I am not trying to sell you anything!.  I promise, if you listen to all that I have to say, and finish reading this letter,  you will end up with more knowledge than you had before, and you will be ready for those "slick" salesmen that will come in the future! I want you to be better informed, better prepared, and better equipped than you are right now; and I also want to let you in on a few TRADE SECRETS that other companies don't want you to know. Before we go into all of the systems, I'd like to introduce myself, and a little bit about my background that makes me uniquely qualified to help you understand how to solve your basement water or your mold problem!

I started building basements over twenty years ago when I was still in high school. I got a job working for what has become the single largest basement company in Ohio. I worked on both the footer and the wall crew so I became well versed early on, in all phases of new home foundation construction and basement waterproofing. Shortly after high school I was hired by a company that performed environmental services, specifically we removed asbestos from schools and public buildings (this was in the mid eighties when the government passed the legislation to require the asbestos be removed from all government building). I learned all there was to know about negative air flow containments air scrubbers manometers and the basics of ENVIRONMENTAL CLEAN UP. I finally quit when I had saved enough money for college. I swore I would never wear a tyvec suit or a respirator again (those are the HOT non-breathable suits that we wear in mold and asbestos clean ups, its funny the way Murphy will get you when you swear not to do something). During these years I began actively pursuing one of my many hobbies and I became an amateur mycologist. I built a lab in my basement... and built myself a glove box and began to perform sterile culture techniques for the growing of all sorts of fungi and mold and mushrooms. I used Petri dishes Autoclaves and learned many of the processes used at modern laboratories today. I did spore streaking and culture analysis. I believe I gave myself the equivalent of an associates degree in mycology. When I got to college I needed a job, and I found one working for the third largest basement waterproofing company in Ohio. I was hired to service their basement waterproofing jobs that were already installed but STILL LEAKED.

I quickly began to learn that there was something drastically WRONG with virtually EVERY single basement waterproofing company in Ohio...

They all install systems with fatal flaws. They have SERVICE DEPARTMENTS to handle the "problem" jobs. I became adept at solving these problem basements "issues". I then began waterproofing basements on my own. I realized from the very beginning that if I didn't want to service my basement customers and charge every year for their warranty I wood have to "fix" the systems themselves used to treat basements. I read every single book there was available on the subject. I did a TONS of experimentation in those first couple of years and began to "fix" each and every one of the problems that I had discovered associated with all the various available waterproofing systems.

Over the years I have continued to refine and improve the systems so they remain "CUTTING EDGE" . About ten years ago I began to study "black mold " and the various health effects related to it.  We actually developed the first completely NON-TOXIC (to humans) approach to treating mold problems.

The first thing that you have to understand is that there are ONLY three basic solutions to ANY basements water leakage problems.

Most companies install only one of the three systems but will claim to offer all three, in reality it isn't true. Most companies offer one basic system either the inside system or the outside system.

The systems: Most companies rely on an interior drain system and a sump pump to control the water. They may call it something different, but a pump placed under the floor is a sump pump, and drains placed under the floor are interior drains. This is just flat out not a good idea, unless it is the only option. I recommend that you do not rely on electricity in any situation where it can be avoided. Some companies in order to confuse the customer and gain a competitive advantage claim that only by combining the interior system with something else, usually some sort of outside work (often digging down only 12 inches) is it possible to truly solve a problem (like the Big Chuck and Little John guys). The outside work generally benefits the customer very little, and allows the company to DRIVE UP THEIR PRICE and appear different from the rest of the inside system competition. Some companies, in order to eliminate the competition, actually price different methods as if they do them (even though they don't). They will price exterior waterproofing ridiculously high, the interior drain method extremely low, and their system somewhere in the middle. If you ask for one of the two methods they don't offer, you will be told they won't install that for you because it just won't work for you. Other inside system companies have come up with different interior methods, on top the footer or above the floor products. Although marketed extremely well, these systems fail in comparison to traditional under slab or exterior drainage systems. The reason is simple they completely fail to drain water under the slab either from the water table or from the exterior of the wall.

In order to help you wade through this mess, below, you will find a brief description of the basic systems offered nationally and what is WRONG with them.

The first solution is to actually excavate the foundation, meaning the foundation is dug up; this is generally referred to as waterproofing ( but I can assure you that in most contractors' cases, IT ISN'T). Most of the guys that do this are small 1-4 men outfits. They learned to do what they do from someone who learned it from someone etc. What these "so-called waterproofers" do is actually to re-apply the EXACT SAME SEALANTS and utilize the exact same techniques that already FAILED in the first place! This usually means re-parging the wall and smearing some tar on it like a monkey!

Have you ever known anyone that had an asphalt driveway? How often did they Have-To Re- Seal it?

I can tell you I have. When I was a kid growing up two of my neighbors had an ongoing debate about their driveways. The first swore you needed to seal it every single year, and he did. The second one swore every two years was enough. I can still hear them arguing now in my mind's eye... LOL. The sad truth is that according to the US Bureau of Standards asphalt sealants begin to break down in only 18 months, YIKES! You see the sad truth is; they were both right! And these so called waterproofers charge an average of ten to fifteen grand just to dig up the basement and seal it again using what FAILED already.

...You See Tar Has Never Been Rated as Waterproof

Did you know that in the building codes there are actually two separate definitions for damp-proofing (tar) and waterproofing. Damp proofing by definition means "something that helps to slow the penetration of water into the substrate". HHMMM "helps to slow" sounds quite different than the definition of waterproofing "something that prevents the penetration of water" and further must pass a bending test where the membrane must be able to be bent around a cylinder.

Water proof sealants are almost all exclusively used and installed COMMERCIALLY...(that's because they are more expensive).

The extra costs are what stop the average contractor from offering you , the homeowner, a product that is effective and will last and "stand the test of time". We have developed and recommend if you plan to re-seal your basement; that you use a  MULTI-STEP EXTERIOR WATERPROOFING SYSTEM which, uses a cement-based fiber re-enforced wall resurfacing system and NO LESS than two waterproof rated sealants. This is by no means the cheapest of methods, however, and it may or may not be the BEST system to put into place. Which system you should use depends entirely on the specific nature of YOUR problem. There are NO miracle systems than can solve ALL basement problems. The thing I can guarantee is if you use a multistep outside waterproof system it will actively drain water away from the foundation, and the water leak will be a thing of the past, not only that, but the sealants will outlast the wood on your house GUARANTEED!

The second solution is an Interior solution which I call the sub-floor water re-directional system. This involves trenching around the interior of the basement wall and installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the inside of the basement. Many companies never explain that the system only works by completely draining the walls and any water under the slab during periods of extended rain or no melt when the water table rises. This system will allow water to be "drained" from the inside of the walls by drilling weep holes into every core of every single block then drained under the floor into a drain pipe and generally to a sump pump to then be pumped out. Other companies will often "explain" that the pipe under the floor takes all the ground water and the outside trench will take away surface water. This outside trench is shallow and worthless. They never even MENTION the drainage holes drilled into the core face of the bottom row of block in the basement, under the level of the floor slab. And folks, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. It is also the step most often "screwed up" by other contractors. You see there are two variables that must be dealt with in ensuring the effectiveness of the "weep holes". First is that when the mason was laying the blocks different masons "slough off" different amounts of mortar into the bottom course which affects the level of the "bottom" inside the blocks themselves. This means it is important to make sure that you are above the mortar bed and yet remain in the lowest part of the block.

Secondly it is ESSENTIAL to make sure that your men are educated as to the history of the development of concrete blocks, as well as all of the different core patterns that have been incorporated into them over time. You see this work is done by YOUNG men. In their short lifetime concrete blocks have only been made with Two cores. If they drill into the block where they imagine the core is today, in one of the many variations in block design that have occurred over the years, it is entirely possible , no probable that they are drilling into the web rather than the core or pocket of the block. Only by drilling into every single core of every single block does it become possible to drain the entire wall and make the system work effectively. It is entirely possible to install the drain tiles perfectly and... still leave ALL of the water dammed up inside the walls, wasting all that money and still leaving the problem UNSOLVED. In fact many times I get called after the homeowners have spent thousands of dollars to "waterproof " their basement and even THOUSANDS MOREto turn it into finished space. Only to find mold growing on newly installed drywall. This happened to one of my customers named Bonnie Rembowski. She had hired a big local company and they installed an inside system. She then hired a contractor to remodel her basement. They hung new dry wall and framed new walls. She had new carpeting installed and everything seemed perfect until... Bonnie kept getting sick.

She was treated for recurring bronchitis many times over a period of about six months. Finally one day Bonnie's doctor suggested to her that she have her house checked for mold. Bonnie called me. I began inspecting the basement and I immediately began to notice mold growing along the bottom several feet on all the newly dry-walled walls that had just been "waterproofed". I began inspecting the inside system and I discovered that even though a permit was pulled ... Even though the drainage pipes were inspected and installed properly... even though there was no puddling or physical seepage the system was NOT WORKING . The reason why became apparent after we broke open the floor and inspected the weep holes- JUST AS I SUSPECTED. The walls were not draining do to improper weep hole placement. Poor Bonnie.

WE HAD TO COMPLETELY GUT THE BRAND NEW BASEMENT ...and disinfect everything to stop the mold and help her STOP GETTING SICK. She contacted the waterproofing company who did the job WRONG. They told her there was nothing they could do under the warranty since technically the basement hadn't leaked (it was just DONE WRONG in the first place). Poor Bonnie then had to hire us to fix the basement problem TOO! Unfortunately this is not the first time this has happened to me and sadly I'm afraid it WON'T be the last.

This inside system however is ideal for situations where water is coming up from under the slab itself; in fact it is the only solution for under-slab water issues. No matter which contractor you call the same basic system is used. There are however many problems with this system as is employed by  "competition" nationwide. The GOOD NEWS however is that we have modified the system to eliminate all of the potential problems and WE EDUCATE OUR WORKERS as to the history of concrete blocks. This education guarantees that this kind of a problem won't happen to you. We also INSIST on installing CLEAN OUTS which are access points set in the floor. These clean outs means that down the road you can maintain your system and "flush it out" every few years with a garden hose. It also means, heaven forbid, you have a problem with the drainage pipes clogging, that you WONT have to JACKHAMMER your floor you can have them snaked or jetted clean! Contrary to what you might have been told PROPERLY INSTALLED inside drainage systems can be the BEST solution when figuring all factors especially the Return On Investment. A PROPERLY INSTALLED inside system is also the preferred method for keeping concrete block walls from disintegrating, due to the fact that it allows for water drainage and keeps soil acid buildup to a minimum.

The last two systems are what we call "beaver" or dam systems that are installed either on top of the floor or just under the floor but on top of the footer that channels water from the walls to either a sump pump or to a floor drain. These systems are marketed to installers usually under the Basement Systems(TM) , Beaver Technology and Squid gee Dri labels, and in my opinion, offer the least protection to your basement.

The Baseboard systems that sit on top of the slab or on top of the footer have several basic flaws.

FLAW ONE: the slab is poured several inches up the bottom block, this means that when the installer drills the weep holes above the floor level the system allows water to keep sitting in the block up several inches which makes humidity which leads to mold and keeps disintegrating the bottom block from the inside out. The bottom block hold the entire weight of the entire house! The LAST thing that you want is that block to crumble -DISASTER!

FLAW TWO: when the cement finisher was troweling your cement floor X number of years ago the last thing on his mind was sloping the perimeter around the basement so 50 years later some guy could glue a gutter around the edge of the basement! What that means is since the gutter is basically level it allows for pooling along the bottom of the walls and is usually just glued into place without any type of pitch added. When the water lays in it in the low sections over time it will DISINTEGRATE or break down the bond between the floor slab and the wall. Eventually LEAKING again into the living space.

FLAW THREE: This system is still prone to the same weep hole placement errors as described above due to variations in the number of cores used in blocks over time.

FLAW FOUR: This system does nothing to drain water from underneath the slab or hydrostatic water from the exterior forced under the footing- it only partially drains the walls which is not good enough to stop MOLD from developing. The second hybrid system is the system offered by distributors of the Basement Systems(TM) called Water Guard this system is installed by breaking out approximately 6 inches of the basement perimeter concrete but digging no trench alongside the footing. The system has a flat drainage pipe that sits absolutely level on the TOP of the footing. The level drain tile will always allow water to sit in it and can contribute to the overall humidity in the room, creating the conditions that let MOLD thrive. This means that the lowest part of the pipe is the TOP of the footer completely failing to drain or eliminate ANY under-slab water whether from the water table or from the exterior of the wall being forced under the slab. In other words it only drains the wall and NOTHING ELSE! This system is used because it drastically limits the amount of labor used by the contractor saving him tons of money! In fact in many cases these contractors make more from this system than any other which is the reason so many of them will offer you a basically WORTHLESS system! It has been proven that the most effective inside de-watering system is one that is installed below the floor slab, and has been given an artificial pitch. It is just as important that when using one of these true under slab systems to correct the items commonly mistaken in the industry that are mentioned above, it is best to have a thorough knowledge of all of the systems at ones disposal!!!

Good luck!

Keep Your Sewer Lines Flowing

Every house has them, yet most people ignore them until something goes wrong. They are your drain and sewer lines. These pipes help carry waste water out of your home, through your yard, and eventually to the city sewer system or your own septic tank and field. Keeping these lines clean and flowing well is an essential part to keeping your home in good shape, and your family healthy.

Drain lines run through the walls or floors, then into the ground beneath your home. When these lines are functioning well, water drains quickly. But drains become clogged with accumulated hair, food, grease, soap scum, even things like straws and silverware. Eventually the drain will not drain at all, breeding disease and opening your home up for flooding.

Even a relatively small flood can cause flooring and drywall damage. Unfortunately this type of preventable disaster is not covered by many homeowners insurance policies. If you have a slow running drain call for and Atlanta plumbing repair professional. A qualified plumber can clean your drains using safe plumbing products and techniques.

In addition to these drain lines, plumbing lines run beneath your home, out into your yard. These sewer lines can become blocked for many reasons such as tree roots, an improperly installed line, or perhaps there is construction debris stuck in it. If your floor drains back up, then you probably have such a blockage under your house or within your yard. It is imperative that you call a plumber immediately if you experience such a drain back up.

Experts can run an electric snake through your lines, with a rotating cutting blade. The snake cuts away roots that have pushed their way into pipes, ensuring that the drain will flow while you arrange a more permanent pipe repair. Sometimes, the snake will find that a collection of solid debris has simply built up, and can clear it easily. When necessary, technology allows your Atlanta plumber to run a small, fiber optic camera down the line, revealing any problems.

Homes with septic systems are susceptible to more problems. Septic systems move waste into a septic tank, where enzymes break down the solid wastes, floating the liquids to the top to leach out into the drain field. There, they seep into the soil, making room for more liquid waste to leave the tank. If the organic balance in the septic tank is not maintained, solids may not be broken down and can leak out into the field, resulting in a clogged field, and liquid waste backing up into the home, costing thousands of dollars to repair.

Prevent this by adding a monthly enzyme supplement to your system and having your septic tank pumped every few years. With plumbing drain lines, a simple slow running drain, if caught early, can be repaired before causing significant damage. As with most things in life, catching a problem early, and having a professional take care of it, it the best step towards keeping your sewer lines flowing well. This will ensure that your family home remains clean, dry and healthy.

Slowcooker Bean-Bacon Chowder and It's Great For Diabetics, Too!

As we approach the fall season, it is a busy time for most of us. It is especially busy for families as the kids go back to school. With school comes homework, athletic practices, ballgames, and other activities. It is also a time that is perfect for soups and chowders as the cool air settles over us. It is also the perfect time to bring out the slowcookers and crockpots, making it easier for busy moms and dads to get dinner on the table. If you are a regular reader of my articles, you know I promote family mealtime. This is a recipe to make that easier for all. Bean-Bacon Chowder is a perfect family recipe.

BEAN BACON CHOWDER

1 1/2 cups dried beans (I prefer navy for this), rinsed well

2 cups cold water

6 slices of thick cut bacon

1 med carrot, halve lengthwise then cut into 1-inch pieces

1 celery rib, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

1 small turnip, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 tsp Italian seasoning mix

1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 can (48 oz) reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 cup milk

Soak beans in the cold water overnight. Cook bacon in medium skillet over medium heat. Drain well on paper toweling. Crumble bacon. In a slow cooker, combine the carrot, celery, onion, turnip, Italian seasonings, pepper, beans and bacon; stir to mix. Pour broth over top. Cover and cook on low 7 1/2 to 9 hours until beans are crisp tender.

Remove 2 cups of soup mixture into a food processor or blender. Process until smooth then return to the slow cooker. Add the milk, cover and heat on high for 10 minutes to heat through.

6 servings. Per serving: 270 calories, 20 g protein, 39 g carbs

Enjoy!

Guide to Replacing an Oil Filter

Most drivers don't know how to change their car engine's oil. In fact it is a task that is needed after every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Many drivers drive with dirty and old oil which can result in engine degradation. It is not very difficult to change an oil filter and it can be done in DIY style, here is a simple guide. Follow the simple directions.

Things Needed
- New oil filter
- New oil
- New oil cap
- Container for old oil
- Wheelie board
- Jack
- Axle stands
- Spanner or socket set to fit sump plug
- Chain wrench
- Latex Gloves

Directions
Step 1:
It is essential not to do an oil change should within two hours time period of driving the car. Otherwise the dipstick will not show correct reading. A good idea is to run the engine with low revs for couple of minutes before thinning the oil and aiding the oil drain.

Step 2:
The car should be parked on a flat surface, this will ensure the stability of the jack.

Step 3:
Open the bonnet and remove the oil filler cap. It is usually made of plastic and is located on the engine block at the top. Check the air vents in the cap for any blockages and replace the entire cap if blocked.

Step 4:
Locate the oil filter and the sump plug. The sump plug looks like a bolt-head which is usually hexagonal facing downwards or sideways, it is usually located at the rear of the engine. In case these are easily accessible without putting the car on a jack, then skip the steps 5 and 13.

Step 5:
Now, the car has to be raised on a jack from the front end. Leaving the car's weight on the jack for any length of time is not recommended. Thus placing the axle stands under the front axles is important and is a double safety measure.

Step 6:
Unscrew the sump plug anti-clockwise with the spanner/socket set and make the container ready to catch the pouring oil. Keep your head away.

Step 7:
Rotate the sump plug taking it off by hand and let the oil drain down in to the old oil container. Keep observing the container as the oil flow likely moves. The drained oil should be disposed off properly.

Step 8:
The sump plug has a magnetic tip. The oil should be gently wiped off and observe it. If the tip has lots of small metal filings, this is a sign that the engine is degrading. There can be number of reasons for this including rust. Make sure the oil is frequently changed in future.

Step 9:
The oil filter has to be unscrewed anti-clockwise. Hands can be used but a chain wrench is mostly used.

Step 10:
Wipe a thin layer of oil around the rubber seal of the new oil filter for ensuring a perfect contact. Then screw the new filter and tighten it by hand only. Avoid over-tight.

Step 11:
The oil should have completely drained by this point. Replace and tighten the sump plug roughly one half-turn past with the spanner/socket set.

Step 12:
Now remove the jack and axle stands and bring the car back to a level position.

Step 13:
Now, locate and remove the dipstick, wipe off the old oil and replace it.

Step 14:
Pour in the new engine oil and take an interval after a pint or 30 seconds, then check the level of the dipstick. Continue pouring till the oil reaches the upper level on the dipstick.

Step 15:
Finally, replace the engine oil-filler cap.

Step 16:
Start and run the engine for few minutes to check the performance.

Time is on Your Side With a Panasonic Watch Battery

A watch is something that most of us need, and whether or not we like it or not, time rules the days of our lives. Buying a watch means that there is already a battery installed in it, and normally it is a small cell or button battery hidden in the back of the watch. Do not be fooled by its size of course, as the voltage and half life of the battery inside the watch is actually very long, and can even run up to the years - and this is down to how the battery is made and how it is structures in the first place. Moving the hands of the clock takes very little energy and because it is a low drain device, the cell battery can last for a long time.

Low drain devices are devices that take a slow toll on the battery, not sucking as much power as possible in as little time as possible. All watches are low drain devices, even the digital ones with the fancy gadgets because the basic matrix of the watch is to merely tell time, and the internet clock and the display can be powered by the single cell battery without any problem at all. But the problem here is of course the reliability of the whole battery and sometimes they can falter. Many times this is down to several reasons, and one of them could be a faulty battery, which would have a leak and thus drain the cell dry within a matter of weeks. It could also be down to the watch and how it utilises the battery, mismanagement of energy is one of the downfalls of watch batteries.

Of course, there are other, acts of God that include rain, heat and exposure to the elements which can cause either the watch of the battery inside to overheat, get wet and erode. So when this happens, you obviously need a replacement, and getting one can be quite difficult. One of the brands recommended out there would be the Panasonic watch battery; and you can find them quite easily at your local hardware store. Of course, no one would recommend that you try to replace the battery yourself, and depending on how expensive or how complex the battery is, you should always go to someone who knows what they are doing.

What this means is that changing the battery on your watch can be a tricky business, especially if you do not have the right tools to do so in the first place, meaning that you need to be able to get access to a watchmaker, (who would also happen to have the replacement batteries in the first place). With a Panasonic watch battery, you are ensured a level of reliability and efficiency - knowing that there is something good powering the watch. Never miss a dead line and always have time on our side with a Panasonic watch battery.

Foundation Repair Choices

This day and age homeowners have many choices when faced with a structural foundation problem. The choices include helical piles, push piers, helical tie-back anchors and plate anchors. Each one of these solutions should only be implemented under the supervision of a qualified engineer and foundation repair contractor. Foundation repair is not a do-it-yourself home improvement project. Intimate knowledge of structures, soils and available products are necessary requirements before repair design can be implemented.

Homeowners must educate themselves to keep ignorant or slick talking salespeople from selling them a bill of goods. Many times the salesman does not represent all of the products that your structure may need to completely solve your foundation repair needs. If he only does waterproofing he will, at best, only slow down or prevent further problems. If he is only a pier guy, he may not have the knowledge of what caused the problem (i.e. water). This is why contacting a qualified foundation engineer is a form of checks and balances to allow for the best possible solution.

Foundation engineers will give you a written assessment of your structure including a recommended procedure to solve your homes issues. This evaluation is conducted on site and usually takes over an hour to complete. The written assessment involves an examination of the interior and exterior of the home, interior floor elevations, load calculations and recommendations on repair methods. The written report should include an imprint of his seal with the date and signature across the seal. Many times the engineer will recommend a foundation repair specialist, that he has worked with before, in his report.

You first must understand what different foundation repair methods can and cannot do to determine if they are the correct method of repair for your home. There is no such thing as one size fits all in foundation repair. Each has their place and their benefits, so make sure that the tool that you pick is the correct one for your job.

Resistance piers, also known as push piers, steel piers and Micropiles. This type of pier is an end-bearing pier that does not rely upon, nor requires, skin friction to produce support. Each pier is field load tested after it is installed. The piers are able to develop a factor of safety because the piers are installed and load tested individually using the weight of the structure as the reaction force. Unlimited lifting capability is offered in continuous lift systems. These lifts should only be performed with a manifolded hydraulic system using single or double acting hydraulic cylinders.

Steel push piers are best suited to any structural problem that requires a large lift. No other system is as suited for these large lifts. Due to the fact that these resistance piers are an end bearing pier, thus developing their support from solid contact on a load bearing stratum. Continuous lift type steel piers are the best of the steel resistance piers due to the fact that they can support and lift a structure to unlimited heights.

Helical piers are an ideal choice when you are supporting or lifting a light structure. They are the ideal choice for light structures due to the fact that they do not need the structures weight to advance into the soil. Helical anchors are screwed in the soil with a hydraulic torque motor as opposed to be pressed into the soil like steel push piers. Like the resistance piers you should only lift the structure with a manifolded hydraulic system using single or double acting hydraulic cylinders.

Helical piers consist of a shaft fabricated from either solid square steel bar or tubular steel. Welded to the shaft are one or more helical plates. Typically the plate diameters increase from the bottom of the shaft upward and vary in thickness from 3/8" to ½". The torque required to install the anchor correlates to their capacity. When used to support or lift light weight structures, helical piers are an excellent choice, due to their many benefits. These benefits include the ability to be quickly installed with little or no disturbance to the site and soil removal is unnecessary, they don't require a reaction force and are extremely versatile in their applications.

While steel resistance piers and helical torque anchors are excellent choices for supporting sinking foundation elements, helical tie-back anchors and plate anchors are just as able to support or straighten concrete or block walls. When a basement wall or retaining wall bows inward one must resist this inward movement to maintain the integrity of the structure. If such a system is not installed catastrophic consequences are forthcoming.

Tie-back anchors and plate anchors resist the lateral soil and water forces exerted on basement and retaining walls. While both systems have different advantages they both provide the same function. They use the surrounding stable soils to resist the pressures of unstable consolidating soils near the foundation.

While one or more of these systems my be needed to fix your foundation problem, understanding each method is the key to determining the solution that best fits your situation. The hiring of a foundation engineer is the most effective method of making this determination.

The Five Myths That Slow Down Sales and How to Avoid Them

Time is money, yeah, yeah, we've heard that before. But if time really is money, why do so many professionals squander it chasing anyone with a pulse, including their most horrible prospects? Because they still embrace one of the great myths of selling, common mistakes that drain profit and energy from a sales organization:

Myth #1: Everybody is our customer.

Myth #2: Every sale is a good sale.

Myth #3: Never take no for an answer.

Myth #4: There's always time to make more sales calls.

Myth #5: Sales people pay for themselves.

Business people the world over know these statements are myths, but behave as if they aren't. Why? It's because the great selling myths are so familiar that they have become invisible. To uproot them, we must create effective ways to replace them with more adaptive, successful practices, and turn those practices into habits. Changing habits is hard.

In the case of the Five Selling Myths, these old habits are ingrained in decades of selling tradition, enshrined in company policy, and even taught by well-intentioned people who might be a little bit behind the times. Replace each of the Five Myths with the Five MythBusters, new approaches to the issues that create better outcomes. Selling is about money - making it, but also spending it. If you knew the real cost of one hour of selling time, you might invest those hours more carefully.

Studies have shown that the average sales person only has about 900 hours (about 100 days) of face-to-face selling time per year, once you take away weekends, holidays, vacations, sick time, and record-keeping. To reach a $1 million dollar quota, each of those 900 hours is worth a whopping $1,111. When the Five Myths rule the sales process, a lot of those expensive hours get wasted. Keep that opportunity cost in mind as you review the Five Myths.

Myth #1: Everybody is our customer. In spite of the thousands of words that have been written about this subject, we still find sales people and executives who don't define their target markets or prospects very well. The awful truth is that when you act as if "anybody" is your prospect, you are throwing money down the drain. You're spending $1,000 an hour to chase marginal prospects, because it feels better to be busy. But to what end?

Mythbuster #1: The right prospects seek the value you add. Selling is simple, really. Find out what you do well, and offer it to people who want it. Replacing the 'anybody who'll buy from me' practice requires some effort on your part. Analyze the things you do particularly well, including your product, service, and personal charm. Then go back over your list of existing customers, asking what you liked about them, and what they liked about you. Write down the pertinent information. And use it as your qualifying 'script' - learn to ask penetrating questions, early in the relationship, that reveal the potential for this prospect to become one of your best customers. At BSG, one of the tools we give clients is The SMART Way Prospect Scorecard(TM), a digital scoring matrix that grades your prospect based on how likely they are to become profitable, long-term customers.

Myth #2: Every sale is a good sale. As obvious as it may seem, this particular myth persists in many businesses. If business is slow, if you've got unused capacity or labor sitting around idle, it's all too tempting to accept any business that walks in the door. But is every sale worth it? Not if it's unprofitable or damaging to your reputation.

Mythbuster #2: Good sales bring profit to the seller and satisfaction to the buyer. Now that you have a definition of your ideal customer, add the definition of a 'good sale.' Write down the margin you have to earn to achieve basic profitability, and don't violate it. Add other characteristics that define the 'good' sale, such as evidence of customer satisfaction. Praise sales people when they decline business that is unprofitable or likely to disappoint the customer's expectations. A component of your Prospect Scorecard should be the likelihood that any given sale represents a tangible exchange of value between buyer and seller, and is just as good for you as it is for the customer.

Myth #3: Never take NO for an answer. This myth is one of the most difficult to identify and therefore to uproot. After all, our society prizes this attitude; we build monuments to it. But think about it. Refusing to take "No" goes hand in hand with 'everybody is our customer' and 'every sale is a good sale.' Always remember that a sale is not a one-way transaction. If it isn't right for one of the parties, then it is probably wrong for both.

Mythbuster #3: Don't beat a dead horse. Adopt an analytical attitude. Qualify each prospect, and each opportunity, carefully, to learn if the deal is in fact going to be (a) profitable and (b) satisfying to the customer. Assess the investment costs of continued sales effort, always remembering that your selling time is probably worth $1,000 an hour or more. At some point, the deal passes the point of diminishing returns. Guide your sales people to a more effective use of their time.

Myth #4: There's always time to make more sales calls. This myth comes into play when the sales team is focused on activity instead of results. But it's a dangerous practice. First of all, there isn't much more time left to make sales calls. If the average sales person has only 100 days (900 hours) of selling time in a year, or less, where is that time going to come from - sleep, sick time, vacations, administration? When sales people go after the wrong prospects, pursue unprofitable projects, or waste time on unproductive activities, then more sales calls may not equal more sales.

Mythbuster #4: Make scarce sales time count. The best way to dismantle this belief is to reinforce the investment value of sales time. Remember the investment value of one hour of selling time - $1,111? Now add up the cost of an hour of nose-to-nose time, plus travel time, gas, tolls, parking, literature, coffee, lunch. Now the cost of that sales call is somewhere north of $1200 and rising. What would happen if your sales people had to requisition that money in cash, every time they went out on a call? They would get very discriminating about the way they invested their time.

Myth #5: Sales people pay for themselves. It's true that plenty of sales people get paid on straight commission, so it seems as if they can pay their own way. But it's not so simple. Sales people may earn compensation from a share of the profits, but their true costs include impact on customer satisfaction, market presence and awareness, lost opportunity and perhaps other considerations.

Mythbuster #5: They pay for everybody. The Sales department funds the entire business operation. So sales people have to do much more than pay for themselves. They have to pay everybody's salaries, fund R&D, underwrite marketing expenditures, and put enough reserves on the books to justify investments in capital equipment. And they can't do that if they don't have the right support and guidance. Replace Myths with Best Practices Selling is probably the most important contributor to business health, even more important than products and services. It's a difficult art to master. So it pays to develop good mechanisms to support and guide the sales effort.

Here are five Best Practices that help sweep away the myths and make the Five Mythbusters come alive. They are:

1. Create an Ideal Customer Profile. Develop this profile on customers with whom you have had success in the past. Detail not only the facts (demographics, company size, annual revenues, SIC codes), but the qualitative characteristics as well, those elements that represent the value they seek when doing business with your company. If you really want a powerful profile, use the SMART Way Prospect Scorecard.

2. Set Clear Expectations. Give your sales people clear and quantifiable performance expectations for all stages of the sales process. Don't simply throw a quota and a territory map at them. Tell them you expect them to convert so many leads to suspects, suspects to prospects, prospects to contracts, contracts to repeat business. And follow up with them.

3. Track Performance and Share the Data. Stop managing your sales force by anecdote, those traditional sales meetings where each sales person fills up time telling about why this or that deal hasn't closed yet. Instead focus on collective performance against those expectations you laid out above. Build sales meetings around a review of the data. Now you're dealing with facts.

4. Work on the Process to Improve Results. If sales are down this month, don't panic. Instead, examine the underlying processes to see where the slowdown occurred and why. Maybe sales are down because there's an operational glitch, or an unexpected trend in the local market.

5. Give Great Support. Everybody likes nice bosses better than mean bosses, but great sales support means more than that. It means removing obstacles to performance wherever possible, smoothing the way, and leaving people alone when that's appropriate. Go over your selling process to see if you can spot any of the Five Myths at work. If you find them, replace them with better practices. Now you are on your way to achieving great sales performance, and sustaining it.

How to Get Working Capital with Invoice Financing

Do you have clients that pay your invoices in 30, 45 or even 60 days? If so, then you are aware of how their slow can drain your working capital. Unless your company has a nice cash cushion in the bank, paying suppliers or even employees can become a problem.

Asking your customers to pay your invoices quickly will not help either. Paying invoices in 30 to 60 days is an industry standard. And, if you work with large or midsize companies, you'll be expected to offer 30 days terms if you want to keep their business. There is no alternative.

So what can a business owner do? Going to the bank may help some, but not most. Before providing financing, banks will require that you provide them with three years of audited financials. They may also require that you have stellar personal credit. So if you cannot get a business loan, what other business financing options do you have?

Invoice financing, commonly known as factoring, is a option that is widely used by businesses, however it is virtually unknown to the general public. It gets your invoices paid in as little as 2 days, eliminating long payment periods. In the end, it provides you with predictable cash flow, enabling you to pay suppliers, employees and grow your business.

An invoice financing transaction works as follows:

1. You deliver goods or services and invoice for them

2. You send a copy of the invoice to the factoring company, who advances you up to 85% as a first installment

3. You get the funds to meet business expenses

4. Once your customer pays for the invoice, the transaction is settled

The cost of factoring invoices, varies based on the commercial quality of your customers and the length of time that you need the money for. Generally speaking, the monthly cost will be between 1.5% and 3.5% for most accounts.

The big benefit of invoice factoring is that it is easy to obtain and can be set up quickly. On average, it takes about 5 days to obtain factoring financing. And once you get it, qualifying for line increases is very easy. All you need to do is increase your sales. Factoring is one of the few products that grows with your business.

Warlock Leveling Guide and Warlock Leveling Spec

Starting a new WoW toon is always a bit difficult, especially when you're the type who likes to do everything right. Warlock is a fun and fairly easy class, though, and this Warlock leveling guide and its Warlock leveling spec will make things even less of a hassle in your quest to level eighty.

Warlock is one of the most powerful PvE classes if played correctly, and with the right spec you will be almost invincible while soloing, and experience zero downtime. The best soloing tree is Affliction, as it is incredibly powerful and mana efficient when leveling, resulting in a Warlock that never needs to eat or drink.

The basic Affliction Warlock Leveling Spec is as follows:

Improved Curse of Agony - Rank 2/2
Suppression - Rank 3/3
Improved Corruption - Rank 5/5
Improved Drain Soul - Rank 2/2
Improved Life Tap - Rank 2/2
Soul Siphon - Rank 2/2
Improved Fear - Rank 2/2
Fel Concentration - Rank 3/3
Nightfall - Rank 2/2
Empowered Corruption - Rank 2/3
Shadow Embrace - Rank 1/5
Siphon Life - Rank 1/1
Shadow Mastery - Rank 5/5
Contagion - Rank 5/5
Dark Pact - Rank 1/1
Improved Howl of Terror - Rank 2/2
Malediction - Rank 3/3
Unstable Affliction - Rank 1/1
Pandemic - Rank 1/1
Everlasting Affliction - Rank 5/5
Haunt - Rank 1/1

After you have these talents the rest of your choices are really up to you; I'd recommend finishing out talents like Empowered Corruption and grabbing other useful talents you passed up along the way.

With a good Warlock leveling spec, we're now ready for our Warlock leveling guide.

First, non-class-specific tips:

Use keybinds for abilities and the mouse for turning; if you're doing it the other way, you're going to react slow and be, to put it bluntly, a bad player.

Don't forget to log out at the inn, or in a major city; the extra experience from rest is pretty nice.

Use a good questing guide. Addons and the built-in quest-goal indicator are handy, but you'll move much quicker doing quests in a certain order as opposed to just wandering from goal to goal.

Warlocks don't usually need it, but keep Food and Water in handy anyways; if you end up low on health and mana it sucks to have to wait for passive regen to fill you back up.

Now, the actual Warlock leveling guide!

Early on, when using a Voidwalker, make sure it has it's agro abilities turned on!

Try to keep the Life Tap buff from the Life Tap Glyph up at all times, the extra damage is well worth it.

Learn to kite! When thing turn ugly kiting can let you burn down even the toughest opponents.

Go for Spellpower/Shadow Damage, Stamina, Int, and Spirit over other stats!

Now, warlock play varies a lot as you level, so let's go over each range.

You'll start with nothing but Shadow Bolt. Pretty soon, though, you'll have your Imp and a few spells. Your early rotation should be:

1: Send in Imp while immolating
2:Apply Curse of Agony, then Corruption
3:Wand the mob to death

After you get your Voidwalker and Drain Soul, things change again:

1:Send in Voidwalker
2:Apply CoA, Corruption, then Immolate
3:Wand mob below 25% then Drain Soul it dead
Once you get drain life, you can start using Life Tap aggressively as well, by changing to
3:Life Tap, Drain Life mob below 25% then Drain Soul

After a while, you'll have Fel Concentration. Now you can start drain tanking. Switch your pet to Succubus, and do this:

1:Send in Succubus while casting Immolate
2:Apply CoA, Corruption
3:Life Tap, Drain life until mob is close to dying, Drain Soul

Also, make sure to use any procs of Shadowbolt that you get from Nightfall or Glyphs when they come up! Things stay the same until you get Dark Pact; at this point, we're back to the Imp!

1:Immolate while sending in the Imp
2:Apply Corruption and CoA
3:Life Tap, then Drain Life (using Shadow Bolt when you get Procs)
4:Drain Soul to finish the mob, Dark Pact when mana is needed

Once you get Unstable Affliction, it will replace Immolate in your rotation. And once you get Haunt, make sure to start with it and keep it's buff up for maximum damage.

Chili Verde Recipes - Slow Cooker Chili Verde

Here's a quick and easy chili verde recipe that you can serve as a soup or over chimichangas.

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon garlic pepper

3 pounds pork picnic roast

1 large onion, diced

1 (14.5 oz.) can chicken broth

2 (4 oz.) cans diced green chilies, drained

3 (7 oz.) cans green salsa

2 (15.5 oz.) cans great Northern beans, drained (optional)

Directions

In a slow cooker, pour in half of the Worcestershire sauce and half of the garlic pepper. Place the roast inside of the pan and sprinkle the remaining Worcestershire sauce and garlic pepper over the top of the meat. Add in the onions and chilies. Pour the chicken broth over all. Cover and cook on low heat for 8 to 10 hours.


When the roast is fork tender (you can pull it apart with a fork), stir in the green salsa and beans. Continue cooking until heated completely.

=> Chili Verde Recipes: Chili Verde Stew

This spicy chili verde recipe features roasted pork, salsa, green chilies, spices and fresh jalapeno pepper. Remember to wear rubber or plastic gloves when handling fresh hot peppers, and don't touch your face or eyes while handling.

3/4 pound boneless pork roast, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon canola oil

1/4 cup green pepper, chopped

1/4 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/4 cup dry red wine or beef broth

1 cup canned diced tomatoes

1/2 cup salsa

2 tablespoons canned chopped green chilies, divided

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon sugar

1 dash ground cloves

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, minced

1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded and chopped

Directions

In a large saucepan, cook the pork in oil over medium heat until it no longer looks pink; remove the meat from the pan and set aside.


In the same pan, sauté the green pepper, onion and garlic for 1 to 2 minutes, or until they are tender. Stir in the pork, wine or broth, tomatoes, salsa, 1 tablespoon of the chilies, cumin, sugar and cloves. Cover and cook over low heat for 40 minutes; stir occasionally.


Stir in the parsley, jalapeno and remaining chilies. Cover and cook for another 20 to 25 minutes, or until the meat is tender.

=> Chili Verde Recipes: Basic Homemade Chili Verde

Here is a simple way to make homemade chili verde which uses fresh cilantro.

1 pound pork, cubed

5 tomatillos (green tomatoes)

3 serrano chili peppers

1 medium white onion

1/3 bunch fresh cilantro

4 cloves of garlic

Directions

In a pan, cook pork until nice and brown; drain off the fat.


Wrap the tomatillos, chilies and garlic in aluminum foil and place them inside a pot. Cover and heat on medum high until the tomatoes are nice and soft; stir occasionally.


Unwrap the vegetables and place in a food processor along with the onion and cilantro. Blend well. Pour sauce over the pork and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. You can add a little more fresh cilantro after about 5 minutes of cooking, if desired.

Preparing the Perfect Fig Preserves Recipe

The history of the fig dates back to around 9000 BC, when remnants were found in Neolithic villages. The Fig is widely grown for its edible fruit throughout Iran and also in the rest of the Mediterranean region and other areas of the world.

Figs have become an important staple in many consumers diet due to the health benefits. Figs are a prime source of fiber, calcium, copper, manganese, magnesium, potassium, and Vitamin K. Additionally; they are high in antioxidants and maintain healthy digestion.

Taking into consideration figs can be eaten dried, fresh or even in compotes, they are a fantastic ingredient for preserve recipes. The hearty sweet flavors combined with the delicate flesh are a well accompanied ingredient to any fig preserves recipe.

The term Jam and Preserves is often interchangeable although the preparation of preserve recipes requires that the fruit be in larger chunks and for jams the fruit is typically chopped or mashed to produce a sort of hash or pulp. The preparation of fig preserves traditionally involves the use of pectin as a gelling agent, although sugar or honey may be used as well.

The proportion of sugar and fruit varies however; a good starting point is using equal amounts of figs to sugar.

Most cooks work by trial and error when it comes to the changing texture of the preserve however, if you plan on following a fig preserve recipe, when the temperature of the pulp reaches approximately 104 °C, the pectin and the acid in the fruit will react with the sugar resulting in the setting of the preserves.

Typically, when making a fig preserve recipe it is quite imperative to use the figs you purchased immediately. The shelf life is quite short so when planning to prepare a recipe, make sure you have an ample amount of time set aside to complete the entire process.

Although there are hundreds of recipes for preserves and jams, here is a basic preserve recipe to get you started:

INGREDIENTS

o 8 cups fresh figs
o 4 cups white sugar
o 1/2 tablespoon baking soda
o 2 cups water
o 6 cups hot water (boiling)
o 1/2 lemon, sliced

METHOD

1. In bowl place figs and dust with baking soda. Pour the hot water over the figs and soak for 1 hour.
2. Drain figs and rinse thoroughly with cold water. In a large Dutch oven combine the sugar and the 2
cups of water; bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes.
3. Add the figs and lemon slices to the syrup in the Dutch oven and cook for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
4. Spoon figs into hot, sterilized jars and spoon syrup over figs, leaving 1/2 inch of space. Place lids on top and screw tightly for a vacuum seal. Place in a hot water bath for up to 15 minutes.
Preparing preserves at home is a wonderfully crafty activity to partake with your family and friends. Give it as a delightful present for the holiday season.

Note: You can also enhance the flavors of a fig preserve recipe by adding other fruits such as raspberries or boysenberries.

Preparing preserves at home is a wonderfully crafty activity to partake with your family and friends. Give it as a delightful present for the holiday season.

8 Feng Shui Tips For Bathrooms

Bathrooms are a problem in feng shui. They are very heavy on the water element, which can lead to stagnation and dampness. The best way to handle bathrooms is to first block the flow of chi into them, and then to balance out whatever chi does get in with either wood or metal energy. Here are some basic tips to improve your bathroom's feng shui.

1) Keep the bathroom door closed

It is good feng shui to keep bathroom doors closed as often as possible. It is also good to keep the toilet cover on as often as possible, especially when the toilet is flushing.

2) Put a mirror on the outside door of the bathroom

This will further block energy from getting into the bathroom. You want a big, full-length mirror to really make any difference here. A tiny little six inch square mirror is not going to cut it.

3) Conceal the toilet

Because the toilet is the largest drain, and because the water does not just drain from it, but is forcefully sucked down all at once, it creates a pretty powerful energy vacuum that is very bad. To help reduce the damage it can do, try to block the view of the toilet as much as possible. Put up a physical barrier, like a silk curtain or a bookshelf, to block the view of the toilet from the bathroom door. And definitely do not put a mirror inside the bathroom in such a way that it reflects the toilet. You will just be doubling the damage.

4) Add light

Natural light is best. Sometimes there are no exterior walls for windows, so the best path for natural light is a skylight. The light will help a lot to energize the dampness of a bathroom, and it will generally just enliven the chi and get it moving. Bathrooms tend toward stagnation, so even if you have to put in an artificial light, do it to get that chi moving.

5) Add tree energy

This is particularly effective if the bathroom is to the East, South-East or the South of the center of the house. Tree energy can take the form of tall, upward growing plants (skip the vines in bathrooms), or it can be wood itself, whether that's a wooden floor, a wooden toilet seat or a wooden bathroom vanity. Even books, as wood, boost tree energy.

Another way to add tree energy is with colors and patterns. Tree energy is fundamentally any upward moving energy, so stripes are good, as are floral patterns that seem to grow up. The primary color is green. Frequently the shower curtain is a great opportunity for a big splash of green, upwardly mobile tree energy pattern.

6) Add metal energy

Metal energy balances out water-heavy bathrooms when the bathrooms are to the North, North-West, North-East, West and South-West. Metal energy can, of course, be anything metal, but anything white or round will also lend some metal power.

7) Keep the drains clear

Even though it sounds like the drains are bad, a blocked up or slow drain is even worse than a clear one. Blockages have big meaning in feng shui, whether it is a blocked toilet or a blocked front door. So get out the Draino or whatever will work on those clogs and get them clear.

8) Keep the surfaces ying and clean

By ying, I mean hard and impermeable surfaces like stone and tile. And they should be clean. Again, because bathrooms tend to have stagnant, damp energy, it is all the more important that the surfaces be as clean as possible so that chi does not get stuck in dust bunnies.

Dog Treadmill - Tips on Choosing and Using a Treadmill With Your Dog

Looking for a dog treadmill?

With the popularity of shows like the Dog Whisperer and people's hectic lifestyles, treadmills for dogs have surged in popularity.

Walking your dog on a treadmill is not a substitute for a good long outdoor walk. However it can help to drain some of your dog's extra energy.

It's a great tool on blizzard or rainstorm days when you can't get out. And for dogs that have weight problems, it can help them trim down and stave off other diseases that come with extra weight (diabetes, heart disease, cancer, etc.).

While there are specialized treadmills built for dogs, most people want a treadmill that can do double duty - one that both you and your dog can use. Plus specialized dog treadmills can be just as expensive as a regular treadmill - sometimes more.

So most people decide to go with a regular treadmill and train their dogs to walk on it.

However there are several things to know so you don't waste money or run into problems. This article will tell you what to look for when choosing a treadmill for your pooch and tips for training your dog to walk on it:

#1 Get the Right Belt Length.

Treadmill belts range from 50" to 62". If you have a smaller dog like a poodle or terrier you probably don't need to choose a longer belt, since these breeds aren't very long.

However the larger (and longer) your dog, the longer your belt needs to be so your poor pooch won't feel like he's falling off the treadmill.

For example, I have a 120 lb very long rottweiler that measures about 44 inches from nose to bum. Given that he can get lazy sometimes and fall back a bit, he needs all of the 60" belt on my treadmill.

While treadmills with longer belts can be more expensive, you don't have to spend a lot if you look around and compare models. For example, you may not need a big flashy console (your dog certainly doesn't care). So you may be able to get a longer belt, but skip those extra options and save some money.

#2 Keep Your Treadmill Clean.

Unfortunately your dog will shed (and probably drool) over your treadmill while he's walking. Hair, dirt and dust are the number one enemies to treadmill maintenance.

Make sure you wipe down your treadmill and keep it clean on a regular basis, especially after your dog uses it. This will help keep it in proper running condition and save you unnecessary repair bills.

#3 Watch Those Paws!

Dogs, especially the larger ones, can really tear up a treadbelt if their claws are not properly clipped. If you want to save the integrity of your treadbelt, make sure to keep your dog's paws properly trimmed down.

#4 Start Slow and Make it a Positive Experience.

I recommend you talk to a professional trainer before you try to train your dog to walk on a treadmill. However from my experience, here are some tips.

We started out to make the treadmill a positive experience for our dog. At first we just trained him to get up and sit on the treadbelt (no walking yet). He then got a treat.

After a few days, he was running eagerly to sit on the treadmill and get his treat. Then I kept his leash on (so I could keep him in place) and started the treadmill very slowly (0.5 mph).

After a few minutes we stopped and he got another treat. This was repeated until he seemed comfortable with the experience

Then we increased the speed little by little - all the time reinforcing with treats and praise. Again, I'm not a dog trainer and this doesn't substitute for professional advice, but it worked for us.

So those are 4 tips when looking at a dog treadmill. Remember that treadmill walking is not a substitute for a good outdoor walk. However for those times you need to drain extra energy from your dog or you just can't make it outside, a treadmill is a great tool to have.

Please Note: This article contains tips on selecting and using a treadmill for your dog. It is in no way intended to be a substitute for professional advice.

Before buying or using any treadmill with your dog, please consult a dog training expert.

What is a Rain Garden?

Homeowners across the country are discovering the joys and satisfaction of rain gardens. A rain garden is a landscaped area that actually replaces an area of lawn. Compared to a "normal" patch of lawn, a rain garden allows 30% more water to soak into the ground. Rain gardens are a good and inexpensive way to prevent the problem of urban stormwater runoff. A rain garden is planted in wildflowers or other native vegetation. As the name implies, rain gardens are designed to soak up rainwater, mainly from the roofs of buildings, parking lots and hard surfaces. A rain garden is designed so that it fills up with a few inches of water after a storm. That water can then slowly filter into the ground, rather than rapidly running off into a storm drain, river or lake.

So, why are rain gardens important? Rain gardens can:


help protect streams and lakes from pollutants that are carried by urban stormwater; pollutants such as lawn fertilizers and pesticides, oil and other automotive fluids and harmful substances that wash off roofs and paved areas


increase the amount of water that filters into the ground
enhance the beauty of the yard
create habitat for birds and butterflies
help protect communities from flooding and drainage problems

A typical home rain garden can be in one of two places: 1) near the house to catch roof run-off; or 2) further out on the lawn to collect water from the lawn, roof, and other hard surface areas. Don't put a rain garden: Within ten feet of the house so that water cannot seep into the foundation. Do not put a rain garden where water already ponds  the goal of a rain garden is to encourage infiltration and wet areas are where infiltration is already slow. And do not put a rain garden directly over a septic system. In addition, rain gardens will thrive better in areas where they will receive full or partial sun.

Rain gardens can combine shrubs, grasses and flowering perennials. The garden itself is actually a depressed area, which is usually about six to eight inches deep. Rain that flows into the garden is retained in the garden for a short time after a rainstorm. The water slowly infiltrates into the ground or evaporates. The plants in the garden filter the water by trapping pollutants.

Rain gardens are not ponds. Rainwater soaks into the garden, which is then dry between rainfalls.

Rain gardens are not breeding grounds for mosquitoes. Mosquitoes need 7 to 12 days to lay and hatch eggs. The standing water in a rain garden will last for only a few hours.

Once established rain gardens require little maintenance. Some weeding and watering may be required until plants get established.

How to Control Or Prevent Pipe Corrosion

Erosion is the continuous slow destruction of a material by its surroundings. Dissimilar metal contact, oxygen, water and debris may provoke oxidation in plumbing pipelines. Not fixed, rusty pipes will lead to a variety of pricey plumbing inconveniences like fractured pipes, slab leak, plus congested drains. With the annual cost of erosion projected at as much as $276 billion - it is not surprising that Americans spend lots of money on piping erosion correction in their houses and businesses. By comprehending the vital details of house plumbing corrosion, you might control or stave off this destructive force to conserve funds and maintain risk-free surroundings for your family unit.

Water Piping Oxidation
In multiple situations, iron, copper and steel pipes along with joints are exposed to rust ruin. The combination of dissimilar metals like copper with steel or aluminum causes erosion in pipe. Metal pipe rust is as well called galvanic erosion and is the aftereffect of electrochemical electron switch-over from the degree of difference of galvanic qualities surrounded by different metals. Plumbers manage or avoid water piping rust by using anti oxidation pipes or at bare minimum using matching types of metals for plumbing connections. If oxidation repellent pipes are not available or plumbing service providers can't use same metals - they will install a plastic or fiber connector surrounded by the joints to stave off diverse metal types from making contact.

The subsequent variables impact rust in metal pipelines:

-Chemical makeup of water
-Low pH water values
-Quantity of air in water
-Pressure of water in piping
-Galvanic rust
-Water temperature

Copper Pipeline Erosion

Pitting rust provokes tiny leaks in copper water pipelines. Copper pipe rust generates the formation of tiny cavities on restricted areas of the metal surface - resulting in small water escape that lose as much as seventy water gallons on a daily basis. Copper pipeline erosion develops for unidentified explanations, however many plumbers attribute the chemistry of water transported in copper pipes to the development of cavities.

Piping Corrosion Care

Aside from bringing about some plumbing inconveniences, rusty pipes transform water passing through them overly acidic, not drinkable, along with of a rusty-brown shade. As a result pipe oxidation repairs ought to be administered as soon as the red flags for oxidation are uncovered by you. Worn or faded spaces all along pipes or under pH seven values of water are familiar hints for piping oxidation. Plumbing service professionals recommend landowners to carry out periodical examinations of susceptible copper pipe for bluish-green stains that in many cases indicate pinhole leakage. If noticed, proprietors and renters have got to phone their local plumbing contractors for efficient handling. Placing pipe vises on tiny holes will cease leakage and minimize the urgent situation until practiced repair is administered.

How to Make Chili in the Slow Cooker

One of the best ways to make a hot meal with beef is by using the slow cooker. This is also one of the easier ways to cook beef as well because it does not require a lot of work on your part. You simply have to prepare the ingredients and then let it cook while you go about your daily business. One of my favorite meals to make in the slow cooker is chili. This article will tell you exactly how to make great tasting chili in just a few simple steps.

First, you'll need to gather the ingredients for making the chili. The ingredients are as follows:

1 lb. ground beef
1 can (1 lb.) stewed tomatoes
1 can (15 1/2 oz.) chili beans
1 can (8 oz.) tomato sauce
1 c. chopped onion
Pepper
1 tsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. salt

Once you have all the ingredients you can begin the process of getting it all together to be cooked. The first step will be to brown the beef in a skillet and then drain the excess grease. This will ensure that the beef is cooked thoroughly. You'll have to chop the onion if you haven't already done so but once that is ready, you can combine the remaining ingredients together in your slow cooker. If you wish you can mix the dry ingredients together in a separate bowl before adding them to the slow cooker. When you have everything mixed together, you can add it to the cooker along with all of the other ingredients.

When you have combined all of the ingredients and placed them in the cooker, you can set the temperature to high and then cook the entire contents for about 8 hours. The reason cooking this chili is so convenient is because if you have to work or leave the house for an extended period of time, you don't have to worry about whether or not the meal is going to cook properly. The slow cooking process allows you to cook the chili over the 8 hours without having to watch it.

When the chili has finished cooking, simply stir and serve once it has cooled enough. Chili can also be served as leftovers, or if you prefer, you can freeze it and then reheat it when you want to have another chili meal. If you're looking for a simple meal that doesn't take a lot of time to cook and tastes great at the same time, try out slow cooker chili. You'll be amazed at how great it tastes and your family will love it too.

Official Boston Baked Bean Recipe

Throughout its history, Boston has been linked to beans. Surely the lowly legume is not the sort of association city forefathers would have sought when striving to cast their city's mark in the New World. But find each other they did -- as evidenced by the names Beantown, Boston baked beans, Beanpot Hockey Tourney and the Boston bean pot, among others.

It hasn't been until the 1900s, however, with its emphasis on healthy eating, that the homey image of a bubbling pot of beans has gained cache. Beans are of the moment, the very definition of what our food should be about -- carbohydrate and fiber rich.

As anyone who's ever done the cooking for a Boston ham-and-bean church supper will tell you: the ideal method for cooking beans is in a bean pot in the oven - to make Boston Baked Beans in the authentic old fashioned way. For that deliciously slow, sweetly fragrant baking, you want traditional pots and sturdy stoneware protecting your beans from burning or overcooking, while keeping them moist and tasty. This recipe embraces the traditional way of cooking authentic Boston baked beans.

OFFICIAL RECIPE for BOSTON BAKED BEANS

Serves 8

2-1/2 Quart Bean Pot Version

1 package (1 pound) navy or pea beans
1/4 pound salt pork, cut in 2 pieces
1 small whole onion, peeled
1 teaspoon dry mustard
8 cups water
1/3 cup molasses
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon pepper

1) Soak beans overnight in a large sauce pan in 6 cups of water. Add baking soda. Heat to boiling and simmer 10 minutes. Drain in colander over a large bowl. Save liquid.

2) Place beans, salt pork and onion in the bean pot. Add molasses, salt, sugar, dry mustard, pepper and a cup of water. Stir thoroughly. Add enough water to cover the beans. Cover the bean pot.

3) Bake 2 hours at 300 degrees. Add the rest of the water and stir again. Bake additional 1-1/2 hours (or until beans are tender). Uncover last 1/2 hour.

Red Lobster Recipe - Shrimp Salad - Red Lobster Variation

This Red Lobster recipe for shrimp salad is a variation of the popular restaurant dish. It differs from the restaurant version in several ways. Instead of a mayonnaise based dressing, it has a vinaigrette style dressing. Also, it is served on the top of lettuce leaves. The Red Lobster recipe is served with cantaloupe. My variation also contains mushrooms, snow peas and toasted pecans as key ingredients.

I think you will like my version of Red Lobsters famous shrimp salad recipe. The snow peas and pecans add delightful, crunchy texture and the Dijon mustard, oil based vinaigrette give it a fresh, exciting taste.

Shrimp Salad (8 servings)

2 lbs. cooked shrimp
1/2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
1 cup toasted pecans
Iceberg, Boston or Bibb lettuce leaves

Vinaigrette Dressing

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
4 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 teaspoon lime juice
1 cup oil (canola or olive oil)
salt and pepper (to taste)

Peal and de-vein the shrimp. Cook the snow peas in boiling salted water for 1 minute; drain. Stir together the mushrooms, shrimp, snow peas and pecans. To prepare the vinaigrette, place the mustard, garlic, lime juice and vinegar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse a few times, then run continuously while adding the oil in a slow stream. Season with the salt and pepper to taste. To serve, toss the salad in the vinaigrette. Place lettuce leaves on top of salad plates and arrange the shrimp salad on top of the plates.

Video Camera Secrets

How to take care of your video camera

When it comes to special occasions that need recording, a video camera will surely be one of the few items present inside the bag. In addition to the camera, a video camera is one of the mainstays of every special event in the family and with the Christmas season and Thanksgiving a few days away, video cameras of all shapes and sizes are being charged inside the homes or being bought off the shelf.

Unlike photographic cameras, which capture one-time images into still shots, video cameras can capture everything, every detail every second and every minute of the day. This is what makes video cameras so popular. It can get every scene in a flash. Nothing is missed!

If you already have your own video camera, it is important that you take care of it. Video cameras like photography cameras have very sensitive parts that you can easily damage when you are not careful. Below are some of the things that you should really watch out for.

Protecting the lens

This is the single most important part in a video camera and it is also the most expensive. If this is damaged, you will have to spend so much, sometimes even enough to buy a new video camera. It is therefore important that you always protect this part.

When storing the camera, make sure that there are no pointed objects that can scratch the lens. Most video cameras that are being sold nowadays have a special compartment for the lens. Old models have lens covers that will protect it from scratches.

When holding the camera, it is important that you loop the strap in your hands or around your neck. This is a safety precaution just in case you accidentally drop the camera. At least, it will not fall on the floor! Dropping the camera is a major no-no because the lens can easily break.

Taking care of the memory card

Although most video cameras have internal memory, which you can use, new models have expandable options. Now, users can add on to the internal memory by using memory cards. In fact, some do not even use the internal memory anymore as this can only slow down the processes of the camera.

To take care of the memory cards, it is important that you place them in a special case, which will protect them from sharp objects or hard ones that can damage its delicate parts.

Lengthening the life of the battery

Although most are probably not charging their batteries according to what the manual says, it is still important that you try to follow the manual every now and then. The general rule is to actually drain the battery first before fully charging it. Fully charging it means that you should not pull the plug until the battery is charged completely. Not charging it fully and not draining the battery before charging can actually cut short or lessen the battery life.

The initial charging of the battery is another area that you should take special attention of. Depending on what the manual says, the battery is often charged for more than 12 hours, sometimes even the whole day. It is vital that the instructions for the initial charging are followed as this can affect the performance of the battery.

How to Choose the Best Juicer Machine

Selecting a juicer to buy can be quite confusing, so here are a few points to consider when comparing different models.

1. There are two main kinds of juicers, fast ones and slow ones. This sounds silly but here's how - fast juicers shred up your ingredients a let the juice drain out of the shredded up pulp. They can be lightning fast, but make lower quality juice. The juice they make can be aerated and goes off faster and has a lowered level of vitamins present. These are called rotary juicers or centrifugal juicers and are the most common sort. Slow juicers (commonly called masticating juicers, masticating=chewing) work by slowly grinding and crushing your ingredients. They take a lot longer but make much better, healthier juice that keeps for 2-3 days and has more vitamin content. Not as common in stores, and often sold in heath food shops.

2. How easy is it to take apart and clean? often overlooked, but you will be doing this every time you use it - so if it has lots of little bits, then it will be a big job to clean. Most modern juicers are designed to be very easy to clean though.

3. How loud is it - if you can, have the shop turn it on so you can hear it running - some models are seriously SCARY in terms of how much noise they make!

4. Finally, is is appropriate to the fruits and vegetables you want to juice. Does it have a nice, big chute that will take say whole carrots, or will it require you to spend more time cutting every thing up into little pieces. Some modern juicers actually have chutes designed to take whole apples now, saving a lot of time indeed.

Can My Sewer Lines Be Repaired Without Digging?

Have you ever had a slow and sluggish drain or looked in your bathtub after washing to find a ring of gunk? If so, you may have a simple blockage not far from the drain. It might, however, be a partially clogged sewer line. This problem is not only annoying but can become downright dangerous if the stuff that's supposed to go into the sewer starts backing up into your house.

Unless you are a plumber yourself, the best way to solve this problem is to call a professional. Sewer lines are buried in your yard and will probably be difficult to find. Then again, in some cases, they might run under the foundation of your house. It is best to hire a professional instead of just starting to dig.

There are many causes of sewer line blockages. Over time a layer of sludge can build up, especially if your drain does not have the proper slope. Sewer lines drain by gravity and the pipe needs to run at a slight downhill angle. This is to allow all the things you send down it to flow where they're supposed to go.

The ground around the pipe can sometimes shift and cause an incorrect angle thus slowing your drain. Other causes of sewer line problems can be a broken pipe that may have happened by being driven over. There may also be a tree or other plant roots that may grow their way into your sewer line. Regardless of the cause, a clogged sewer line is nothing to mess around with.

A professional should be able to diagnose your problem without digging up the entire drain line. This can sometimes be accomplished through checking any clean out plugs you may have installed in the line. Most professional plumbers will even have small video cameras that can be placed in the drain to reveal blockages. That way, the problem can be pinpointed without wrecking your entire yard.

Once the problem is diagnosed however, there may still be some digging involved. If there is a major break in your sewer line the only way to fix it is going to involve digging the line up and replacing the broken section. However, if your blockage is only partial or your line is only cracked there are alternatives to digging. Most plumbers have some type of power rodding equipment.

This equipment is useful for removing sludge buildup or root systems that have invaded your sewer line. It consists of a head used for cutting and clearing, attached to a flexible steel rod or line. This rod or line is then attached to a turning mechanism sometimes powered by a gas or electric engine. This turns the head through the rod thus clearing out the blockage.

If your sewer line is cracked there are even alternatives to recoat the inside of your pipe with dry-in-place epoxies. These and other materials effectively reline your pipe and seal up any cracks without having to dig the entire line up. There are numerous methods to fix a sewer line and calling a professional plumber will be the first step in diagnosing your problem and getting it fixed with as little hassle as possible.

Tips to Preventing the Most Common Types of Water Damage in the Kitchen

Even though it is one of the most frequently cleaned rooms, the kitchen is many times neglected in the moisture department. Since the sink is one of the major points of interest in the kitchen signs of excessive moisture are sometimes overlooked with false justification. In addition to the sink and counter tops being sources of possible water damage, the refrigerator and dishwater are also partners in crime.

Proper inspections of these points of interest can help prevent water damage in your kitchen and we will go over some basic ways you can keep them in check. Make sure to be extremely thorough during inspection and try to look at them with a fresh perspective every time you do.

You should check under the sink regularly to make sure there is no water gathering from a leak down there. "Out of site, out of mind" does not cut it! If you have a problem you need to fix it before it gets worse and requires even more expensive repairs. The two most common reasons for leakage in the sink area are cracked tiles and broken pipes. It may not seem like it is in the scope of this article, but if you have a dripping faucet or slow draining sink you need to fix the problem and stop ignoring it as well. Just like many other problems in life, these things build upon each other, have chain reactions and consequences.

The most under checked area of interest is the rear of the refrigerator. Nobody wants to check the back of the fridge, since it is not very accessible, but it must be done. If you find any liquid back there you must not ignore it. You need to fix the problem immediately, and if you do not posses the skills necessary for the solution you need to call an experienced technician. If this problem has been going on for a while, there may already be water damage and mold. Clean off any mold with agents such as bleach and rectify any damage that has been done. Check for the source of the leak and take care of it, it might be as simple as tightening a hose.

5 Steps to Avoid Headaches With Rental Property Maintenance and Repairs

Are you tired of maintenance calls from your tenants? Then this 5 step guide will help you reduce and or eliminate future headaches.

Through out the years I have discovered the biggest maintenance problem areas are: plumbing, drains, toilets, appliances, and heating/cooling. Those are the areas you should focus on when preparing a vacant house for a new tenant. Are you ready to get started?

Here Are The 5 Steps To Take:

Step 1. The Plumbing: Check each faucet and make sure it operates properly. The water should stop dripping when the hot and cold water knobs are closed. Repair as required. Next look under each sink with a flash light while the water is running and make sure there are no leaks at supply lines and drain. Repair as required.

Next check the water supply line going to the toilets and verify there are no leaks or evidence of a leak. Next check the showers and bath tubs for operation. The water control knobs should be secure and the water should stop when the valves are closed. Take notice of how the water flows from the shower head. If clogged soak in vinegar or CLR chemical.

Next inspect the hot water heater for signs of leakage at the base and at the water supply line going into the top of the tank. Repair or replace as required. Next inspect the washer machine water supply lines for leaks and repair as required. Next check outside faucets/spigots for proper operation and that there are no leaks.

Step 2. The Drains: Check and test every drain including: sink drains, bath tub/shower drains, and washer machine drain. If you find a clogged or a slow drain than repair using a plumbers snake. Bath tubs, showers, and bathroom sinks always get clogged with hair and foreign objects such as tooth paste caps.

Step 3. The Toilets: I always rebuild every toilet with a fluidmaster toilet repair kit. I have had great luck with the repair kit and they cost under $25.00 each. Toilets are a heavily used item and should be rebuilt at every vacancy. This will save you from maintenance calls down the road.

Step 4. Appliances: The biggest appliance problems are the dishwasher, garbage disposal, and the burners on a stove.

Check the dishwasher by running it through its full cycle. Take off the bottom cover at the base and make sure there are no leaks while it is running. Repair any leaks.

Next check the inside of the dishwasher and make sure it is draining properly at the end of the wash cycle.

If a motor goes out on a dishwasher it is more cost effective to replace the dishwasher with a new one.

Next test every burner on the stove to make sure they operate and heat up. If they don't you will usually have to replace the non working burner element. Tenants usually destroy a burner element with excessive grease/oil when they are cooking.

Next test the oven and make sure it is heating properly.

Refrigerators have a tendency to collect a lot of dust around the condenser coils on the back of the refrigerator. A wet/dry vacuum works good for cleaning them.

Next clean the drain hole and drip pan. The drain hole often gets clogged with food particles. Refer to your owners manual for location of drain hole and drip pan.

Garbage disposals: I always remove them from middle to low end houses because they cause excessive maintenance calls. Tenants think they can put anything down a garbage disposal. Wrong! Save yourself headaches by removing them.

I also remove dishwashers on low end houses for the same reasons and you should to.

Step 5. Heating and Cooling: The HVAC system needs to be inspected and serviced once a year and the furnace filter needs to be replaced once a month.Accomplishing routine maintenance on this system will save you big dollars down the road by extending the life.

By following this rental property maintenance and repairs guide you should see a reduction in tenant calls. Giving you more free time to spend with your family.